Once again, I am bombarded with inconsistencies. As we are in the midst of celebrating Christmas, as Bethlehem is decorated with lights and filled with the sounds, smells, and sights of Christmas and celebration, we are also aware of the pain and suffering that is occurring in Gaza right now. As many of you know, Israel started an airstrike on Gaza yesterday. According to Aljazeera news, the current death toll is 280 people and there are over 600 more who are injured, making yesterday the bloodiest day in Palestine/Israel since 1948. In addition, Israel has made it clear that these airstrikes will continue. On December 19, a 6-month truce between Hamas and Israel ended, making it unlikely that the fighting will cease any time soon. According to Aljazeera, Hamas is calling for a 3rd Intifada.
To make the situation even worse, medical supplies are running out, and the wounded have little to no resources. The UN has called this a humanitarian crisis, which it has been for some time now, as there has been an 18-month blockade on Gaza. People are starving, suffering, and dying.
Last night, I experienced yet another inconsistency. The principal from my school invited Marta and I to a wedding reception. As we walked up to the wedding hall just mere minutes from our house, we were shocked to find the hall dark and seemingly empty. As we walked up further towards the door, we were approached by a man asking us what we wanted. We told him that we had been invited to the wedding, and he ushered us in, explaining that they turned off all the outside lights and shut the drapes out of respect for the recent events in Gaza. It was strange walking into a room where there was so much joy, while at the same time thinking about Gaza. It is hard to find a respectful balance. Today I was amazed to see people laughing and talking on the streets, but then I realized that these people are confronted with issues like this on a daily basis. They need to have coping mechanisms to deal with these things that plague them constantly.
Today, in solidarity and respect for what is happening in Gaza, and as a nonviolent way to protest violent actions, all of the stores in Bethlehem and surrounding cities in the West Bank closed their doors. Walking through the city was eerie, as a usually lively city felt like a ghost town. This made me think a lot about the situation. If anything were to happen here, as a foreigner I would have the option and the resources to get out. However, the people I have come to know and love here would not have that same option. They can never escape this constant fear and questions of “what if….” Similarly, the Gazans don’t have the option to get out. They are stuck in a state of perpetual suffering and anxiety about the future. Please keep Gaza in your prayers.
Sunday, December 28, 2008
Christmas in Bethlehem
On Christmas Eve, I woke up excited and energized for the day. I bundled up with layers (although not quite as many as I would have in Minnesota) and Marta and I headed out to meet up with a teacher and friend from our school. We traveled together to Manger Square, where the festivities had all begun. Music from the abundant Scout troops filled the air, and sounds of bagpipes, drums, and marching became part of the Christmas scene. As I walked through the streets, I was amazed and overwhelmed by the energy in the air. Manger Square was completely filled with people, so much so that moving became nearly impossible. Instead of walking on our own, it seemed as though the crowd did the work for us, pushing us where we needed to be. While watching the parade, we ran into some of the 11th and 12th grade students from the school, girls that we have come to know and become friends with. We kissed each other on the cheeks (as is the custom) and greeted each other with “Merry Christmas!” above the noise in the streets. As we walked along with them, it seemed as if we could not go more than 10 steps without seeing someone we knew and stopping to greet them. While I have felt a part of the community for quite some time now, this day really solidified my feeling of being immersed in the culture and community here.
After spending nearly 6 hours in Manger Square, talking with friends and enjoying the festivities, we headed over to Christmas Lutheran Church (seems fitting, huh?) where there was a Christmas Eve service in junction with Redeemer Lutheran Church in Jerusalem. The service was trilingual and included parts in English, Arabic, and German. As we sang “O Come All Ye Faithful,” I got the shivers when we sang the part about coming to Bethlehem to behold Him. It really made me appreciate how special it was to be there, in the city where Jesus was born, where the story began.
Christmas in Bethlehem for me was not about the decorations or parades; it was about the people I spent it with, the people who have become my family here. Of course, I miss my family and friends back at home, but this was such a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, and I am so grateful for all the people who made Christmas so special and meaningful. Through them, I see the love of Christ and the presence of God. I hope you all had a very special and meaningful Christmas!
After spending nearly 6 hours in Manger Square, talking with friends and enjoying the festivities, we headed over to Christmas Lutheran Church (seems fitting, huh?) where there was a Christmas Eve service in junction with Redeemer Lutheran Church in Jerusalem. The service was trilingual and included parts in English, Arabic, and German. As we sang “O Come All Ye Faithful,” I got the shivers when we sang the part about coming to Bethlehem to behold Him. It really made me appreciate how special it was to be there, in the city where Jesus was born, where the story began.
Christmas in Bethlehem for me was not about the decorations or parades; it was about the people I spent it with, the people who have become my family here. Of course, I miss my family and friends back at home, but this was such a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, and I am so grateful for all the people who made Christmas so special and meaningful. Through them, I see the love of Christ and the presence of God. I hope you all had a very special and meaningful Christmas!
Advent and Christmas Carols
As we progressed through the season of Advent and into Christmas, there was an indescribable energy here. As usual, Advent was a time of anticipation and preparation for the coming of the Christ, and Christmas was a celebration of the birth of the Light of the world. However, as we sang Christmas carols and began to celebrate Christmas, there was an unmistakable sense of sorrow, an inability to reconcile the pain and suffering here with the celebratory joy that embodies Christmas. As we sang “O Little Town of Bethlehem,” I couldn’t help but notice the inconsistencies of the lyrics.
O little town of Bethlehem
How still we see thee lie
Above they deep and dreamless sleep
The silent stars go by
Yet in thy dark streets shineth
The everlasting Light
The hopes and fears of all the years
Are met in thee tonight
Bethlehem is anything but still right now. This traditional hymn depicts Bethlehem as a peaceful and silent place, where hope is evident and near. While I am still optimistic and see hope in the people here, I know that the reality is that many people have lost hope. Christmas time here is wonderful and almost like something from a fairytale, but what many people who come here just for Christmas don’t see is the pain masked by the Christmas decorations and festivities. For me, I know I will never be able to sing Christmas carols in the same way I did before coming here. While I will still sing with joy, I will never be able to forget the reality behind the lyrics.
O little town of Bethlehem
How still we see thee lie
Above they deep and dreamless sleep
The silent stars go by
Yet in thy dark streets shineth
The everlasting Light
The hopes and fears of all the years
Are met in thee tonight
Bethlehem is anything but still right now. This traditional hymn depicts Bethlehem as a peaceful and silent place, where hope is evident and near. While I am still optimistic and see hope in the people here, I know that the reality is that many people have lost hope. Christmas time here is wonderful and almost like something from a fairytale, but what many people who come here just for Christmas don’t see is the pain masked by the Christmas decorations and festivities. For me, I know I will never be able to sing Christmas carols in the same way I did before coming here. While I will still sing with joy, I will never be able to forget the reality behind the lyrics.
Jordan
A few weeks ago, during Eid il Adha (a Muslim holiday that commemorates God asking Abraham to sacrifice his son Ishmael), our volunteer group traveled to Jordan. After waiting to get through the multiple checkpoints, we finally arrived in Amman, the capital of Jordan. I was amazed by the city…there were skyscrapers, new cars (something we don’t see here), fast food restaurants, and policemen stopping people for speeding (something we also don’t see here). As one of the other volunteers pointed out, it was so refreshing to see an Arab city that is thriving and, more importantly, not occupied. We got a whirlwind tour of the city, which included seeing Roman ruins and the Dead Sea Scrolls (so exciting!). After the tour we attended Good Shepherd Lutheran Church, one of the ELCJHL (Evangelical Lutheran Church of Jordan and the Holy Land). We were warmly welcomed into the congregation, and afterwards one of the members asked us why we didn’t send any volunteers to Jordan. “We need hope here,” he said. I didn’t know how to respond to his statement, but it made me think.
After Amman, we traveled to Petra, which is one of the sites to see when you are in Jordan. Unfortunately I was sick and spent the day in my hotel room, but luckily I have another opportunity to go there soon. From what I hear, it is amazing.After Petra, the 5 of us YAGMs embarked on a journey to Wadi Rum, a beautiful desert in Jordan. We spent 2 days and nights in the desert, alternating between walking and riding on camels and jeeps. We spent this time with Difallah, our Bedouin guide, and his family. Although this was a “tourist” trip, I felt like more of a guest than a customer. At night we sat around the fire and were serenaded by sounds of singing and the oud (an Arab instrument similar to a guitar). In fact, we were lucky enough to be in the presence of one of the best oud players in the Middle East. He is usually traveling but because of the holiday he had returned to Wadi Rum to visit. The whole trip was so serene and just what I needed. It was a necessary break from the stresses and challenges of living in the West Bank. To just be able to see God in the sunsets, in the beautiful surroundings, in the vast expanse of desert, and in the simplicity of life was so wonderful
After Amman, we traveled to Petra, which is one of the sites to see when you are in Jordan. Unfortunately I was sick and spent the day in my hotel room, but luckily I have another opportunity to go there soon. From what I hear, it is amazing.After Petra, the 5 of us YAGMs embarked on a journey to Wadi Rum, a beautiful desert in Jordan. We spent 2 days and nights in the desert, alternating between walking and riding on camels and jeeps. We spent this time with Difallah, our Bedouin guide, and his family. Although this was a “tourist” trip, I felt like more of a guest than a customer. At night we sat around the fire and were serenaded by sounds of singing and the oud (an Arab instrument similar to a guitar). In fact, we were lucky enough to be in the presence of one of the best oud players in the Middle East. He is usually traveling but because of the holiday he had returned to Wadi Rum to visit. The whole trip was so serene and just what I needed. It was a necessary break from the stresses and challenges of living in the West Bank. To just be able to see God in the sunsets, in the beautiful surroundings, in the vast expanse of desert, and in the simplicity of life was so wonderful
Monday, December 15, 2008
Food
So I got a request from a friend to write a little about the food here, so here it is :) Pita bread ("hobez", in Arabic) is one of the main components of every meal. Almost every day we buy a fresh bag of pita from the bakery down the street. The smells emanating from this bakery are unreal, and the pita is fresh and warm. Unlike in the US, fresh vegetables and fruits are abundant and cheap here (a week's supply of fruits and veggies for 3 people is about NIS 50, or about $18), so a lot of the cooking we do here is based around vegetables. Salads are popular here; the most common is Arabic salad, which is a combination of cucumbers, tomatoes, and onions with a vinegar sauce. Baba gonoush is also a common salad and is made from eggplants and tahini sauche. Rice is also a key component of Palestinian food. A traditional Palestinian dish is called Maklouba, which is an upside down meat dish. It contains rice, lamb, pine nuts, and other spices and is delicious. The recipe is listed below.
Another common dish is rice wrapped up in grape leaves, and rice and meat wrapped up in cabbage leaves.
Other common (and delicious!) foods include:
Falafel (fried chick peas)
Shawerma (meat sandwiches)
Hummous
Lentils
There are no grocery stores here, so everything that we buy comes from little shops and markets. Sometimes we do our shopping in the central market in Bethlehem, other times we walk up the hill from our apartment and grab what we need from Shaddy's, the local fruit and vegetable store. Shopping here is always an interesting experience. I have learned the word for "cilantro" in Arabic, which has been quite helpful when I get the craving to make pico de gallo or guacamole! The store owners are now familiar with us, so I think we are beginning to be charged the "local" prices as opposed to the "tourist" prices.
Meats Recipes - Maklouba (Middle Eastern Upside-down Pudding)
Ingredients
450 g/1lb/2 cups risotto or long-grain rice
900 g/2 lb boned shoulder of lamb, diced
100 g/4 oz/1/2 cup butter
60 ml/4 tbsp corn oil
900 g/2 lb cauliflower, cut into florets
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Ground cinnamon
50 g/2 oz/1/2 cup pine nuts
Plain yoghurt
Method:
Boil the rice in water for 10 minutes. Drain. Put the lamb in a large saucepan and just cover with boiling water. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, melt half the butter with the oil in a large frying pan (skillet). Fry (sauté) the cauliflower until golden brown.
Drain the lamb, reserving the cooking liquid. Wash the saucepan and return the meat to the pan. Season well with salt, pepper and cinnamon to taste.
Put the cauliflower in a thick layer on top and season again. Put the drained rice on top and spread in an even layer.
Pour the lamb cooking water over to 5 mm/1/4 in above the rice, topping up with water if necessary. Do not stir. Season again with salt, pepper and a little more cinnamon.
Cover and cook fairly gently over a moderate heat until the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is tender. Turn off the heat and leave undisturbed for a further 20 minutes.
Invert over a warm serving dish and leave the saucepan in place for a further 15 minutes. Meanwhile fry (sauté) the pine nuts in the remaining butter.
Lift off the saucepan, spoon the pine nuts and their butter over and serve warm with yoghurt.
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Another common dish is rice wrapped up in grape leaves, and rice and meat wrapped up in cabbage leaves.
Other common (and delicious!) foods include:
Falafel (fried chick peas)
Shawerma (meat sandwiches)
Hummous
Lentils
There are no grocery stores here, so everything that we buy comes from little shops and markets. Sometimes we do our shopping in the central market in Bethlehem, other times we walk up the hill from our apartment and grab what we need from Shaddy's, the local fruit and vegetable store. Shopping here is always an interesting experience. I have learned the word for "cilantro" in Arabic, which has been quite helpful when I get the craving to make pico de gallo or guacamole! The store owners are now familiar with us, so I think we are beginning to be charged the "local" prices as opposed to the "tourist" prices.
Meats Recipes - Maklouba (Middle Eastern Upside-down Pudding)
Ingredients
450 g/1lb/2 cups risotto or long-grain rice
900 g/2 lb boned shoulder of lamb, diced
100 g/4 oz/1/2 cup butter
60 ml/4 tbsp corn oil
900 g/2 lb cauliflower, cut into florets
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Ground cinnamon
50 g/2 oz/1/2 cup pine nuts
Plain yoghurt
Method:
Boil the rice in water for 10 minutes. Drain. Put the lamb in a large saucepan and just cover with boiling water. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, melt half the butter with the oil in a large frying pan (skillet). Fry (sauté) the cauliflower until golden brown.
Drain the lamb, reserving the cooking liquid. Wash the saucepan and return the meat to the pan. Season well with salt, pepper and cinnamon to taste.
Put the cauliflower in a thick layer on top and season again. Put the drained rice on top and spread in an even layer.
Pour the lamb cooking water over to 5 mm/1/4 in above the rice, topping up with water if necessary. Do not stir. Season again with salt, pepper and a little more cinnamon.
Cover and cook fairly gently over a moderate heat until the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is tender. Turn off the heat and leave undisturbed for a further 20 minutes.
Invert over a warm serving dish and leave the saucepan in place for a further 15 minutes. Meanwhile fry (sauté) the pine nuts in the remaining butter.
Lift off the saucepan, spoon the pine nuts and their butter over and serve warm with yoghurt.
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Thanksgiving
Thanksgiving was a few weeks ago, but I wanted to write about it nevertheless because it was a very important experience for me. As we all know, it is difficult to be away from home, especially during the holiday seasons. Holidays are a time for traditions and for sharing them with the people you know and love. This was the second Thanksgiving that I have spent abroad, and I am so blessed to have celebrated such an important holiday here in such a unique place. I attend a small church in Beit Sahour, which is connected to the school that Marta and I volunteer at. The Pastor of this church kindly and enthusiastically invited us to his home on Thanksgiving. While Palestinians obviously don't celebrate the American Thanksgiving, he had spent some time studying in the US and therefore knew the significance of this holiday for us. So the 5 of us volunteers and our director and his wife all prepared a Thansgiving dish to share, and we gathered around the table, Americans and Palestinians alike, to celebrate this holiday of thankfulness. This year has given me much to be thankful for. I am so thankful for the Palestinians who have welcomed us with open arms, open hearts, and open homes. I am also thankful for the privileges I have that come from being born in the US (the ability to freely travel, for one) . I am thankful for the extremely supportive international community I have found here, as I am for the supportive family and friends at home. I am thankful to have a place to call home, as many Palestinians have been away from their homes for years and some don't even know what home is anymore.
The list could go on forever, but basically I am thankful to be in this place now and to experience and learn and grow throughout this year. Happy belated Thanksgiving, everyone!
The list could go on forever, but basically I am thankful to be in this place now and to experience and learn and grow throughout this year. Happy belated Thanksgiving, everyone!
Gaza
It has been almost a month since my last post, so in the next few posts I will attempt to catch you up with what has been happening in my life and in Palestine. As many of you know, there is a crisis in Gaza right now. On November 4, when the eyes of the world were turned to the US Presidential elections, Israel found an opportunity to close Gaza off from the rest of the world. This means that nothing has been able to pass through Gaza, including food, water, and fuel. Today, the Israeli adminstration has once again announced that Gaza is under complete closure. Because no fuel can pass through Gaza, it's final power plant had to shut down last night. On the news a few weeks ago was a story about Gaza and the effects that closure has on its people. Especially pertinent is the effect that the electricity shortage has on hospitals. All appliances in the hospitals are electrically attached, so when there is a shortage of fuel (as there has been), the hospital has to run on a generator. However, generators only last so long, so doctors were forced to take extreme but necessary measures of manually pumping oxygen to the patients. As if this were not enough, many drugs have reached 0 stock levels.
The people of Gaza are in the midst of a "humanitarian crisis", and all for what reason? The closure supposedly happened in response to rocket attacks by Palestinian militans, and this rocket attack was a response to an IDF raid that killed six gunmen on November 4 (according to Haaretz News). I certainly do not condone the rocket attacks or raids, but is it fair to punish the 1.5 civilians of Gaza in such an extreme way? In reading a little more about the situation, I came across an article written by a public speaker on Middle Eastern affairs, and he raised an interesting point about the Gaza situation:
"What, after all, can one expect from a child who endures, with his family and whole community, slow death and daily humiliation; degradation, denial of food and basic medical care? For sure, he or she will never forget or forgive. Are we aware of the future price we will all pay for this suffering? Do we recognise that our kids shall face the Gaza’s kids, at some point in the future; can we imagine the contours of this dialogue? "
It is true that people in Gaza are suffering on a daily basis...what does this mean for the Palestinian/Israeli conflict and hope for future peace? What will happen to the current generation of children (the future leaders) if all they are taught is to fear and hate the "other"? Vounteering in the kindergarten has given me a uniqe perspective on the situation here. Sure, I see hope and love in the eyes of these children. But I also see anger and fear, especially when the first thing they construct with blocks is usually a gun. While it is frightening for me to see armed soldiers walking down the streets and standing at intersections, it is part of the every day schema for them. To see something other than that would be peculiar to them.
I don't know what will happen with the situation in Gaza, but I ask that you keep the Gazans in your prayers. And I also ask that you pray for Israel and for wisdom for its leaders that they can make good decisions.
The people of Gaza are in the midst of a "humanitarian crisis", and all for what reason? The closure supposedly happened in response to rocket attacks by Palestinian militans, and this rocket attack was a response to an IDF raid that killed six gunmen on November 4 (according to Haaretz News). I certainly do not condone the rocket attacks or raids, but is it fair to punish the 1.5 civilians of Gaza in such an extreme way? In reading a little more about the situation, I came across an article written by a public speaker on Middle Eastern affairs, and he raised an interesting point about the Gaza situation:
"What, after all, can one expect from a child who endures, with his family and whole community, slow death and daily humiliation; degradation, denial of food and basic medical care? For sure, he or she will never forget or forgive. Are we aware of the future price we will all pay for this suffering? Do we recognise that our kids shall face the Gaza’s kids, at some point in the future; can we imagine the contours of this dialogue? "
It is true that people in Gaza are suffering on a daily basis...what does this mean for the Palestinian/Israeli conflict and hope for future peace? What will happen to the current generation of children (the future leaders) if all they are taught is to fear and hate the "other"? Vounteering in the kindergarten has given me a uniqe perspective on the situation here. Sure, I see hope and love in the eyes of these children. But I also see anger and fear, especially when the first thing they construct with blocks is usually a gun. While it is frightening for me to see armed soldiers walking down the streets and standing at intersections, it is part of the every day schema for them. To see something other than that would be peculiar to them.
I don't know what will happen with the situation in Gaza, but I ask that you keep the Gazans in your prayers. And I also ask that you pray for Israel and for wisdom for its leaders that they can make good decisions.
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